Color Fastness to Water ISO 105 E01 method

PURPOSE & SCOPE: This method is used to determine the resistance of the color of textile of all kinds and in all forms to wat... thumbnail 1 summary
  • PURPOSE & SCOPE:

This method is used to determine the resistance of the color of textile of all kinds and in all forms to water.

  • APPARATUS:
    • Perspiration Tester
    • Oven
    • Multi fiber
    • Grey scale
    • Color matching cabinet
    • Glass plate or Acrylic resin plates
    • Weight 12.5 kpa (5 kg)
    • Glass beaker
    • Petri dish
    • Stirring rod

  • REAGENTS:
Distilled water or di-ionized water is used in this test method because natural (tap) water is variable in composition.
  • SAMPLE PREPARATION:
Cut the specimen and multi fiber at 100 X 40 mm & sewn together for ISO method
  • WORKING PROCEDURE:
    • Wet in distilled water at room temperature and it will suck water.
    • Place it in acrylic resin plates and put the weight on to the plates.
    • Keep it I oven and keep the temperature at 37⁰±2⁰C  for 4 hours.
    • Open the specimen and dry it in the air hot exceeding 60⁰C

Color Fastness to Wash Test for Textile Testing

A specimen of the textile to be tested, with the adjacent fabric attached is subjected to washing under specified conditions. To exte... thumbnail 1 summary


A specimen of the textile to be tested, with the adjacent fabric attached is subjected to washing under specified conditions. To extent of any change in color and that of the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed and the rating is expressed in fastness numbers.

  • REQUIRED MATERIALS:
Following materials required for color fastness to wash test-
    • Sample size (40x100 mm)
    • Multi fiber (ISO F10 , AATCC APPROVED)
    • ECE Detergent (WOB) 4 g/l
    • Sodium Perborate 1 g/l
    • AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent (WOB) 1 g/l  
    • Grade 3 water
    • Normal cold water
    • Steel balls
    • 100% cotton sewing thread.

  • REQUIRED INSTRUMENTS:
    • Rota wash / Gyro wash
    • Scissor
    • Sewing machine


  • PROCEDURE:
    • Cut sample and multi fiber according to ISO 105-C06 or AATCC method.
    • Make solution according to buyer or selected standards.
    • Prepare beaker and the sample is kept 40⁰C/49⁰C/50⁰C/60⁰C for 30/49 mins in Rota wash/Gyro wash.
    • Rinse the sample with cold distilled water then cold normal water.
    • Dry the sample at temperature not exceeding 60⁰C.
    • After drying the sample assess the shade change and staining.

DETERMINATION OF YARN COUNT (Indirect System)

Yarn count is very important to achive desire GSM after knitting. Not only for GSM but also its have some other important issues thats are... thumbnail 1 summary
Yarn count is very important to achive desire GSM after knitting. Not only for GSM but also its have some other important issues thats are important to know before knitting. 


At spining and knitting yarn count tested for varius reason. Today's discussion about Yarn count. Textile testing professionals always use this indirect system to test yarn count. 

Here, 
  • PURPOSE AND SCOPE
To determine of yarn count.


  • APPARATUS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:
    • Yarn warp reel
    • Weighting balance.


  • PROCEDURE:
    • Take required length of yarn using warp reel.
    • Then take the specimen from the warp reel and weight it.
    • After measuring the weight of that known length use below equation to measure the count-
English Count(Ne)  =L X W'/L'X W
Here,
L = Sample Length in yds. Prepared by: Shamim Hossen
L'= Unit length in yds = 840 yds
W= Sample weight in lbs

W'= Unit weight in  

DETERMINATION OF YARN TWIST (According to ISO standard)

Yarn twist is very important for knitting. And it cause spirality of garments. So its very important to test yarn twist before knitting. H... thumbnail 1 summary
Yarn twist is very important for knitting. And it cause spirality of garments. So its very important to test yarn twist before knitting. Here how to test yarn twist -



One of the effects of putting into a strand of fibre or filament is to cause the strand to contract in length.Suppose a yarn is twisted Z way and has a length, h.Let the twist be completely removed to produce an untwisted strand of length h+c, c being the contraction due to twist.

If the strand is now twisted S way with a number due to turns equal to those removed,we would expect that the strand will again contract to the original length, h .Several twist testers are based upon this concept.The yarn is first gripped in the left hand clamp which is mounted on pivot and carries a pointer.After led through the rotating jaw,The yarn is pulled through until the pointer lies opposite a zero line on a small quadarnt scale; the jaw is then closed.

At this stage the specific is under a small tension and has a nominal length of 10 in.As the twist is remove,the yarn extends and the pointer assumes a vertical position,so removing the tension.Eventually all the twist is taken out but the jaw is kept rotating in the same direction until sufficient twist has been inserted to bring the pointer back to the zero mark again.

The total number of turns registered on the revelation counter is divided by 20, that is twice the number of inch in the test length.The result of this division is the turns per inch in the specimen.A moments reflection will show that twice the number of inch is used as a divisor since only half the revolution of the jaw actually remove the twist.

  • PURPOSE AND SCOPE:
    • Following the test method is to used to determine twist in all single spun yarn and 100% cotton open end yarns. For all open-end spun that are not 100% cotton, this test method has not been found to be satisfactory for determine twist but may be used to measure deviation from an average value.
    • Yarn has “S” twist if, when the yarn is held in vertical position, the visible spirals or helices around its central axis confirm in direction of slope to the central portion of the letter “S” and the yarn has “Z” twist if the visible spirals or helices more yarns, either single or piled are twisted together, the letter “S” and “z” are used in a similar manner to indicate the last twist inserted.


  • APPARATUS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:
    • Twist tester with all accessories.
    • Yarn for testing.
    • Calculator for calculation.


  • PROCEDURE:
    • Take four yarn cones from a single dispatch and condition them.
    • Clip the yarn from a conditioned cone to the twist tester.
    • Attach the weight (an accessory of twist tester) to the yarn at ten-inch distance from the point of clipping. Remember not cut the yarn from the cone/package side.
    • Check the counter meter of twist tester. Meter should be at zero.
    • Pull the needle lever to let the needle on the twist tester more freely.
    • Push the speed lever on the twist Tester to start the test. At this point the needle starts to move in left direction.
    • When the needle return at the starting point. Stop the speed lever and note the counter meter reading.
    • Calculate the yarn twist according following formula:
      • Twist per inch (TPI) equals counter meter reading divided by 10.
      • Twist Multiplier factor (TMF) equals TPI divided by yarn count.

Yarn Quality Requirements for knitting

The yarn characteristics have a major influence on the performance of knitting as well as on the apperance of finished fabric. Improvements... thumbnail 1 summary
The yarn characteristics have a major influence on the performance of knitting as well as on the apperance of finished fabric. Improvements in the performance of knitting industry demand improvements in the knitting machines as well as optimisation of yarn properties. Various hosiery yarns are manufactured using the range of fibres available to suit different end uses. In Bangladesh, India majority of the knitted products are made from cotton yarn.

The following are the important yarn quality requirements for efficient running on knitting:


  • High work of rupture value.
  • antial elongation at break.
  • Low flexural, torsional and initial stretch resistance.
  • Good resilency.
  • High ratio of parimary to secondary creep.
  • Reasonable tenacity and loop strength.
  • Resistance to fatigue due to cyclic stress and strain.
  • Regularity of physical characteristics such as twist, evenness, moisture content.
  • Smooth and low frictional properties.
Conditioning at yarn prior to kintting at a standard atmosphere of 65±2% RH at 27∘C temperature for 24 hours to 48 hours will give good results in knitting. Moisture content of cotton and cotton blended yarns not only affects knitting performance but also helps in maintaining consistency of fabric weight. Hence a moisture meter should be used so as to quickly establish yarn fabric moisture. 

To prevent snarling, steam setting is essential for polyester blends. The recommended steam setting conditions are:

Vacuum Gauge - 740mm Hg
Temperature - 95 - 110 c
Time Duration - 15 to 30 min

In high speed knitting the knitting performance with respect to yarn hairiness is to be considered o the following accounts:
  • Excessive yarn hairiness causes excessive yarn friction between yarn and metal , which hinders proper loop formation and particularly with cotton yarn, general lots of fly.
  • It spoils the fabric appearance and causes excess pilling.
  • It also gives improper dyeing.




Introduction of Textile Printing

 Printing is one kind of dyeing. When different types of color used to make a particular design on the textile goods is called printing. N... thumbnail 1 summary
 Printing is one kind of dyeing. When different types of color used to make a particular design on the textile goods is called printing. Normally printing is performed on the textile goods in dry condition.



Flow Chart of Printing:

Grey Cloth
Brushing and Shearing
Singeing
Desizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Mercerizing
Stentering
Washing
Drying
Winding/Beaming
Printing
Finishing
Printing Methods:

Printing effect is performed by using some instruments like screen, roller, block etc. The procedure of creating printing effect according to the design by using different types of instrument is called method of printing. The methods used for printing is given below:
1)      Block printing method
2)      Flat press printing method
3)      Stencile printing method / Spray printing method
4)      Screen printing method
5)      Roller printing method
6)      Transfer printing method
7)      Flock printing method
8)      Engraved roller printing method
9)      Batik printing method
10)   Photographic printing method
Style of Printing:

Sometimes we used various types of technique in different printing methods to perform the printing effect easily. This effect of printing is called style of printing. Style of printing mostly depends on the behavior of the dye and chemicals and the material to be printed. Style of printing can be divided into following groups:
1)      Direct style of printing
2)      Dyed style of printing
3)      Azoic style of printing
4)      Metal style of printing
5)      Block style of printing
6)      Crepe or Crepon style of printing
7)      Printing of Lining
8)      Discharge style of printing:
a)      White Discharge style of printing
b)      Color Discharge style of printing
9)      Resist Style of printing
10)   Raised style of printing
Ingredients of Printing:

It is required to produce printing pest before printing. A good printing pest is mainly responsible for good printing effect. So it is very important to make a printing pest carefully. There are different ingredients used in printing pest for different purposes. Generally following ingredients are used in printing pest:
  •  Dye stuffs or pigment
  • Wetting agent
  • Thickener
  • Solvents Dispersing agents
  • Defoaming agents
  • Oxidizing and reducing agent
  • Catalyst and oxygen carrier
  • Acid and alkali
  • Carrier and swelling agent
Steps in printing process:

  •     Preparation of print paste
  •     Printing of fabric
  •     Drying
  •     Fixation of dyestuff
  •     Washing


Difference between dyeing and printing:

Dyeing
Printing
The process by which a textile material is changed physically or chemically so that it looks mono uniform colored is called dyeing.
When different types of color used to make a particular design on the textile goods is called printing.
In dyeing process, the goods dyed is one color uniformly all over the fabric.
In printing process, color is applied according to the design only.
Dyeing is performed in wet condition.
Printing is performed in dry condition.
Fiber, Yarn and fabric are used for dyeing.
Only fabric is used for printing.
For dyeing there is no design.
For printing there is a particular design.
Only one color is generally used in dyeing process.
One or more colors are used in printing process.
A particular temperature is maintain in dyeing process.
There is no particular temperature controlling system in printing.
Thickener is not used in dyeing process.
Thickener must be used in printing process.
The density of dye solution is low.
The density of dye solution is high.
Generally after dyeing , steaming and curing are not required.
After printing , steaming and curing is must for fixing the dye molecules to the goods.
Dyed fabric is respectively soft in feeling.
Printed fabrics is respectively harsh in feeling.
Respectively low cost.
Respectively high cost.
There is no localized application.
 There is localized application.
Much amount of water is required.
Less amount of water is used.
Liquor ratio is high.
Liquor ratio is less.


Automatic Flat Screen Printing:
A.      Approximately 17% of printed goods.
B.      Advantages
a.       Large repeats
b.      Multiple strokes for pile fabrics
C.      Disadvantages
a.       Slow
b.      No continuous patterns
Rotary Screen Printing:
A.      Approximately 50% of printed goods
B.      Advantages
a.       Fast
b.      Quick changeover of patterns
c.       Continuous patterns
C.      Disadvantages
a.       Design limitations
b.      Small repeats
Engraved Roller Printing:
A.      Approximately 26% of printed goods
B.      Advantages
a.       High design capability
                                                                 i.      Fine detail
                                                               ii.      Multiple tones
C.      Disadvantages
a.       Copper cylinders very expensive
b.      Not economical for short runs
c.       Requires highly skilled workers
Heat Transfer Printing:
A.      Approximately 7% of printed goods
B.      Advantages
a.       High quality prints
b.      Fewer seconds
c.       Economical for short runs
d.      Practically pollution free
C.      Disadvantages
a.       Slow
b.      Primarily only for polyester

Thickener:

Thickener or Gummy Substance:
Thickener is used in textile printing which is a main part of high molecular weight compound giving viscose paste in water. This imparts stickiness and plasticity to the printing paste so that it can be applied to a fabric surface without color spreading. All about 50% to above amount is used to prepare a printing paste.
  • Function of Thickener:
  • It is soluble in water.
  • It is comparatively cheaper and available in the market.
  •  It has great attractive towards dyestuffs i.e it acts as a dye carrier.
  •  It also has viscosity properties for binding.
  • It will not react with any dyestuffs or chemical.
  •  It bears physical and chemical stability.
  • It can be easily removed or withdrawn after printing.
  • It prevents bleeding effects and retain the surface of print design.

Finishing:

Finishing Progress:
The treatment applied to the textile goods after dyeing and printing process is normally called finishing process.
Objects of Finishing:
  1.         I   To increase the attractiveness of fabric.
  2.                     To increase the service ability
  3.             To increase the beauty and glitter ness of the fabric.
  4.                     To increase the fineness and to ensure smoothness.
  5.                   To ensure softness of the fabric.
  6.                  To free from hairiness of the fabric.
  7.             To increase attractiveness to the fabrics paying customers.


Finishing agents:


Starch, gum, glow, dextrin, china clay, epsum salt, gypsums salt, glycerol, soap, soluble oil, etc. were the finishing agent in previous time. Now long chain fatty acid compound, synthetic resin, cellulose derivatives, quandary ammonium compound etc. are using as finishing agents.