Introduction of Knitting and Industry

The art of knitting has been rapidly progressing in the development countries of the world. Unlike woven fabrics, knitted fabrics are pop... thumbnail 1 summary
The art of knitting has been rapidly progressing in the development countries of the world. Unlike woven fabrics, knitted fabrics are popular for their shape fitting properties, softer handle, bulkier nature and high extension at low tension. The hand knitting was a much older technology.
The application of knitting was popular by the term hose to produce a complete covering of the legs and since then the word hosiery is conveniently used for a series of articles on stockings, socks and knitted leg coverings, and even to the general circular knitted goods. Though the invention of the first knitting machine is attributed to the Reverend William Lee of England in the year 1589, the growth of machine knitting in Britain was not spectacular. The Lee hand stocking machine established the principle of bearded needle with sinkers, knock over bits etc. In nineteenth century, many inventors struggled to convert the hand operated into steam power by which the knitting speed attained 100 percent greater. The invention of latch needle and its introduction to circular knitting (first machine 1808) simplified the knitting action and enabled circular knitting machines, to be built plain, rib and purl fabrics.

Comparison of woven and knitted fabrics:

Knitting began with wool knitting and expanded fast to cotton and lately into the synthetics including all types of blends. Knitting is comparatively faster and more economical process to convert yarn into fabric, even straight into apparels, socks etc. Piece knitting is possible whereas piece weaving is not yet known. Besides being economical , knitted fabric being stretchable offers more comfort and better fitting in the most type of apparels. Designing possibilities are also larger though at times difficult. The mass production of knits have overriding advantages. The apparel of knitted fabrics lies in part in the very nature of the knitted as compared to the woven structure-its superior draping powers, its ready pack ability and its ease and excellent comfort.

Besides better appeal, popularity of knits in principles stems from the nature of knitting technology. Basically cloth can be turned out more economically on a knitting unit than on a loom. The knitting machine also has some distinct advantages over the loom in terms of patterning potential, the speed and case of patterning \. Modern living style is becoming more and more informal, go as you like and easy going. Man's life in these days is full of tension and informality helps him relax and case tension to a great extent. It is for these reasons that knitted casual wear, sportswear, T-shirt, Ladies tops, skirts, overalls, jackets, suits and what not are catching up fast and replacing woven wear years back.

The following gives the general comparison of woven and knitted fabrics:


  • The woven fabrics are produced by the interlacement of warp and weft yarns and thus require at least two yarn systems for their production. In knitted fabric production one yarn is sufficient; however a group of yarns are required for warp knitting.
  • Elasticity as well as stretch-ability of woven fabrics are much less and unless special elastic yarns are used, there is almost no elasticity. Knitted fabrics show high amount of stretch and elasticity due to their loop structure. Thus they have the ability to warp the body and confirm to body movement.
  • The lesser inherent tension and good dimensional stability of woven fabrics results in minimum shrinkage and loss of size. The formation of loops by the given yarn causes inner tension which  higher shrinkage values in knitted fabrics.
  • The woven fabrics are more durable than knits as their durability depends on yarn strength, yarn twist, yarn structure and fabric weave. The durability of knitted fabrics is based on yarn strength, loop size , stitch density and the kind of knit. Due to the elasticity character of the loop, tensile and tearing strength tests are not performed for knitted fabrics. Their bursting, wear and other resistance performances are good.
  • Moisture absorption of knitted fabrics is more than that of woven because of their comparatively loose and voluminous in construction.
  • Tight cond\struction and intersecting of yarns at right angles provide good stability to woven fabrics and hence there are no much problems of slackening and loosening of the g\fabrics. Because of the loose structure by the loops and also because of their inability to return back to their original form after stretching in knitted fabrics, there is the problem of slackening and loosening after wearing a long time.
  • Though the air permeability, heat conductivity and insulation properties are depended on fie structure fabrichickness, fabric construction and finishing processes, the open and voluminous structure of knitted fabrics makes them advantageous with respect to the above characteristics.
  • As the woven fabrics are more inclined to crease, their ironing and iron retention properties are better than knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics are more resistant to crease and their garments can be worn without ironing. Their ironing and ironing retention properties are also poor.

The process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a series of yarn in weft direction is called knitting. There are two types of knitting process like:


1. Warp knitting.

2. Weft knitting.

Warp Knitting:


In a warp knitted structure each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the number of threads used o produce such a fabric is least to equal to the number of loops in vertical direction.


Weft Knitting:

In a weft knitted structure a horizontal raw of loop can be made by using one thread and the threads runs in horizontal direction.

The potential of knitting technology:
Structure of knitting provides opportunities for-

1. Using a minimum number of yarns.
2. Daisy flow of yarn from one loop to another under tension.
3. Varying the size of loops.
4. Loop distortion when under tension.
5. Loop transfer.
6. Knitting single face, double face, open-work and surface interest structures.
7. Increasing or decreasing the number of loops in width or depth.
8. Knitting to shape either fabric pieces or separate articles.
9. Knitting from a selection of yarns.
10. Engineering extensibility of stability.
11. Informing yarns suitable for knitting.

Basics elements of knitting:
Basic elements of knitting machine –

Needle 

1. Beard Needle
2. Latch Needle
3. Needle Compound.


Cam

1. Engineering cam (circular)
2. Knitting cam (Knit cam, Tuck cam, Miss cam)


Sinker

1. Loop forming sinker
2. Holding Down sinker
3. Knitting over sinker.

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