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Historical development of garments industry:
Garments is the second basic need of human. It is very difficult to say the exact time of the use of garments. In 1755 the first sewing machine developed by Charles Frederic of England. In 1851,
commercially sewing machine is developed by Isaac Merit Singer. In 1829, the first garments factory was established at Paris with 80 sewing machine to produce uniform for military forces.
Flow Chart of Garments Manufacturing:
Briefly Discuss:
Design or Sketch:
It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurements of particular style.
Basic Block:
It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.
Working Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension.
Sample Garments:
The gmt which is needed for bulk production is called sample garments.
Problems of production or Production Related Matter:
Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.
Approved Sample:
The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.
Send to buyer:
When all process are done then the gmt are sent to buyer.
Production Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.
Sample Flow Procedure of a Buyer
A. Offer Sample:
a. Offer sample refers first sample without technical assessment.
b. This sample created by supplier.
c. May have already pre-given measurement or sketches.
d. Ordered by team via designer or product manager.
e. This offer sample may be approved in first time or will have to be revised.
B. Fitting Sample:
Fitting sample is done for:
a. Fitting approval
b. Measurement approval
c. Workmanship approval
d. Size approval
e. This fitting sample may be approved in first time or will be advised to revise.
C. Quotation Sample:
Quotation sample is done for:
a. Price approval
b. Order confirmation.
D. Style Sample:
Style sample is done for:
a. Order confirmation
b. Prepared for specific style
E. PP Sample:
a. Made of bulk materials before production start.
b. Prepared for approval purposes for production.
c. Prepared to be identified by buying team.
d. To be advised for replace or will be accounted as counter or seal sample.
F. Size set Sample:
a. Size set sample refers the size wise samples of an order.
b. This sample created by supplier for getting approval.
c. Size wise fitting.
d. Size wise measurement.
e. Size wise quality.
G. Production Sample:
a. Production sample refers the sample from actual production.
b. Replace shipment sample.
c. Size and color according to counter sample as a basis for quality control(measurement and workmanship)
H. Advert Sample / Photo Sample:
a. For promotion purposes.
b. Advert or photo shooting etc.
c. Correct materials, color, workmanship, measurement.
d. Size defined by buying team.
I. PR / Fashion Show Sample:
a. For all presentation and fashion show purposes.
b. Replace fashion show samples.
PATTERN:
Pattern is a hard paper which is made following each individual component for a style of garments.
Pattern Making:
The pattern which is used in gmts industry are as follows:
I. Block Pattern or basic block.
II. Working pattern or gmts pattern.
Block Pattern or Basic Block: Block Pattern or basic block is an individual components of garments without any design or style. It can be made in two ways . Such as –
I. Flat Method
II. Modeling
Flat Method: In this method, the pattern of different parts of garments especially body and sleeve are made by technical drawing. Actually this method comes from modeling method and by this method fast pattern making is possible.
Modeling: It is primary and first method and is widely still used in garments industry. In this method block is made with standard body measurement of dummy is called toile. Toile is worn on the body of dummy to check fittings. Then toile is worn out from the body of dummy and individual parts of toile are drawn on hard paper or board paper. In this method, more time is required but most efficient.
Garments Pattern: Garments pattern is made on the basis of block pattern or basic block. Individual block pattern are drawn on hard paper or board paper. Allowance i.e. sewing allowance, trimming allowance, center front line, bottom hole, dart and pleat is considered in this pattern.
Factor Upon Which Pattern Making Depends:
1. Skill ness.
2. Technological knowledge.
3. Analysis of design and
4. Experience of gmt making.
MARKER:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments in such a way that fabric wastage would be least.
Constraints of Marker Making:
The work of the marker planner is subjected to a number of constraints. These are related with:
a) The nature of the Desired result in the finished garments. These are:
b) The requirements of quality in cutting
c) The requirements of production planning.
Methods of Marker Making: There are two types of marker making. Such as:
a) Manual Method
b) Computer Method
Manual Method: Manual methods are two types. Such as:
a) Marker planning with full size in a full size pattern and
b) Marker with minimized pattern.
Marker Planning With full size in a full size patterns: In this method all patterns are in full dimension according to standard measurement. Hard paper are placed on paper or fabric and then all patterns are rounded to reduce the marker length. The top of table on which marker making are fixed or fitting and the fitting table top are placed in various angle. Arrangement of vacuum system under table top which are suitable for table cloth.
Marker with minimized pattern: Full size patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a pantograph and minimized patterns made by pantograph are plastic sheet or hard and coarser. Maker is planned by minimized pattern. After marker making, marker is taken snap by camera. The marker efficiency is measured by marker area and pattern area. Marker photograph and minimized pattern are stored.
Advantages of Manual Method:
a) It suitable for small production.
b) Investment cost is low.
Dis advantages of Manual Method:
a) More time is required.
b) High labor cost.
Computerized Method: This is the best method and it gives the higher marker efficiency. It is also two types. Such as:
a) Automatic marker making
b) Inter active marker making
Automatic Marker Making: In this method, computer makes marker itself. According to given commands, computer can make marker. In this method the most efficient marker can be got but it takes more time as the computer makes marker with the help of permutation and combination.
Inter Active Marker Making: It is a common process of marker making. The operator’s plans marker by interacting directly with the system through a computer screen. All the pattern pieces are displayed in a miniature of the screen. In this method, data per and tablet used for transferring of patterns.
Computerized Marker Making Technique:
a) Monitor→ Size + Sketch → Computer Monitor Enter
b) Computer Monitor → Small Size → Show
c) Grade rule to computer monitor
d) By applying grade rule , we all find all size of pattern pieces i.e. S, M, L and , XL.
e) Marker width
f) Number of pieces per marker
Advantages Of Computerized Marker Making:
a) Suitable for large scale production
b) Marker efficiency is higher than manual
c) Least wastage fabric
d) Low Production cost
e) Print out of the marker could be got in need
f) Grading of the pattern could be done automatically
g) Few time consumption
h) Can be prepared marker quickly.
Disadvantages of Computerized Marker Making:
a) Initial investment cost is high and
b) Skilled operator is required.
Garments is the second basic need of human. It is very difficult to say the exact time of the use of garments. In 1755 the first sewing machine developed by Charles Frederic of England. In 1851,
commercially sewing machine is developed by Isaac Merit Singer. In 1829, the first garments factory was established at Paris with 80 sewing machine to produce uniform for military forces.
Flow Chart of Garments Manufacturing:
Design or Sketch
↓
Basic Block
↓
Working Pattern
↓
Sample Making
↓
Approved Sample
↓
Costing
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting and Bundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Ironing or Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Cartooning
↓
Send to Buyer or Dispatch
Briefly Discuss:
Design or Sketch:
It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurements of particular style.
Basic Block:
It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.
Working Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension.
Sample Garments:
The gmt which is needed for bulk production is called sample garments.
Problems of production or Production Related Matter:
Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.
Approved Sample:
The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.
Send to buyer:
When all process are done then the gmt are sent to buyer.
Production Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.
Sample Flow Procedure of a Buyer
A. Offer Sample:
a. Offer sample refers first sample without technical assessment.
b. This sample created by supplier.
c. May have already pre-given measurement or sketches.
d. Ordered by team via designer or product manager.
e. This offer sample may be approved in first time or will have to be revised.
B. Fitting Sample:
Fitting sample is done for:
a. Fitting approval
b. Measurement approval
c. Workmanship approval
d. Size approval
e. This fitting sample may be approved in first time or will be advised to revise.
C. Quotation Sample:
Quotation sample is done for:
a. Price approval
b. Order confirmation.
D. Style Sample:
Style sample is done for:
a. Order confirmation
b. Prepared for specific style
E. PP Sample:
a. Made of bulk materials before production start.
b. Prepared for approval purposes for production.
c. Prepared to be identified by buying team.
d. To be advised for replace or will be accounted as counter or seal sample.
F. Size set Sample:
a. Size set sample refers the size wise samples of an order.
b. This sample created by supplier for getting approval.
c. Size wise fitting.
d. Size wise measurement.
e. Size wise quality.
G. Production Sample:
a. Production sample refers the sample from actual production.
b. Replace shipment sample.
c. Size and color according to counter sample as a basis for quality control(measurement and workmanship)
H. Advert Sample / Photo Sample:
a. For promotion purposes.
b. Advert or photo shooting etc.
c. Correct materials, color, workmanship, measurement.
d. Size defined by buying team.
I. PR / Fashion Show Sample:
a. For all presentation and fashion show purposes.
b. Replace fashion show samples.
PATTERN:
Pattern is a hard paper which is made following each individual component for a style of garments.
Pattern Making:
The pattern which is used in gmts industry are as follows:
I. Block Pattern or basic block.
II. Working pattern or gmts pattern.
Block Pattern or Basic Block: Block Pattern or basic block is an individual components of garments without any design or style. It can be made in two ways . Such as –
I. Flat Method
II. Modeling
Flat Method: In this method, the pattern of different parts of garments especially body and sleeve are made by technical drawing. Actually this method comes from modeling method and by this method fast pattern making is possible.
Modeling: It is primary and first method and is widely still used in garments industry. In this method block is made with standard body measurement of dummy is called toile. Toile is worn on the body of dummy to check fittings. Then toile is worn out from the body of dummy and individual parts of toile are drawn on hard paper or board paper. In this method, more time is required but most efficient.
Garments Pattern: Garments pattern is made on the basis of block pattern or basic block. Individual block pattern are drawn on hard paper or board paper. Allowance i.e. sewing allowance, trimming allowance, center front line, bottom hole, dart and pleat is considered in this pattern.
Factor Upon Which Pattern Making Depends:
1. Skill ness.
2. Technological knowledge.
3. Analysis of design and
4. Experience of gmt making.
MARKER:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments in such a way that fabric wastage would be least.
Constraints of Marker Making:
The work of the marker planner is subjected to a number of constraints. These are related with:
a) The nature of the Desired result in the finished garments. These are:
a. Pattern alignment in relation to the gain of the fabric.
b. Symmetry or asymmetry and
c. The design characteristics of the finished garments.b) The requirements of quality in cutting
c) The requirements of production planning.
Methods of Marker Making: There are two types of marker making. Such as:
a) Manual Method
b) Computer Method
Manual Method: Manual methods are two types. Such as:
a) Marker planning with full size in a full size pattern and
b) Marker with minimized pattern.
Marker Planning With full size in a full size patterns: In this method all patterns are in full dimension according to standard measurement. Hard paper are placed on paper or fabric and then all patterns are rounded to reduce the marker length. The top of table on which marker making are fixed or fitting and the fitting table top are placed in various angle. Arrangement of vacuum system under table top which are suitable for table cloth.
Marker with minimized pattern: Full size patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a pantograph and minimized patterns made by pantograph are plastic sheet or hard and coarser. Maker is planned by minimized pattern. After marker making, marker is taken snap by camera. The marker efficiency is measured by marker area and pattern area. Marker photograph and minimized pattern are stored.
Advantages of Manual Method:
a) It suitable for small production.
b) Investment cost is low.
Dis advantages of Manual Method:
a) More time is required.
b) High labor cost.
Computerized Method: This is the best method and it gives the higher marker efficiency. It is also two types. Such as:
a) Automatic marker making
b) Inter active marker making
Automatic Marker Making: In this method, computer makes marker itself. According to given commands, computer can make marker. In this method the most efficient marker can be got but it takes more time as the computer makes marker with the help of permutation and combination.
Inter Active Marker Making: It is a common process of marker making. The operator’s plans marker by interacting directly with the system through a computer screen. All the pattern pieces are displayed in a miniature of the screen. In this method, data per and tablet used for transferring of patterns.
Computerized Marker Making Technique:
a) Monitor→ Size + Sketch → Computer Monitor Enter
b) Computer Monitor → Small Size → Show
c) Grade rule to computer monitor
d) By applying grade rule , we all find all size of pattern pieces i.e. S, M, L and , XL.
e) Marker width
f) Number of pieces per marker
Advantages Of Computerized Marker Making:
a) Suitable for large scale production
b) Marker efficiency is higher than manual
c) Least wastage fabric
d) Low Production cost
e) Print out of the marker could be got in need
f) Grading of the pattern could be done automatically
g) Few time consumption
h) Can be prepared marker quickly.
Disadvantages of Computerized Marker Making:
a) Initial investment cost is high and
b) Skilled operator is required.
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